I had the opportunity to travel to Tunisia twice during my PhD studies for research, and also did some side sightseeing. Although both trips were in September, we experienced both the heat and torrential downpours with flooding. During one the trips, it was Ramadan which was also an interesting experience. Since Muslim people were fasting during the day, there were a lot of patients with dehydration coming to the hospital where I was working. Additionally, some restaurants were not open during the day, but after sundown there were big feasts. We were lucky to have great hosts to show us around and take us to wonderful restaurants.
First, I explored the capital Tunis, which is a large city with a mix of modern and old architecture. It’s vibrant and busy, and we needed to use taxis to get around. In contrast, Sidi Bou Said is a quiet, beautiful coastal town with its characteristic blue and white houses and cobblestone streets. We were able to walk around once we arrived there by train. Many tourists enjoy visiting Hammamet for beach holidays, and from Tunis it is possible to travel there by group taxi. My friends went there but I didn’t have time due to work. Finally, one of the my favourite places to visit was the famous and historic Carthage with its ancient ruins.
Some friends have asked me if I felt safe there. In fact, I felt a bit harassed in the market areas, although I was less bothered then blonde women, who attracted a lot of attention. Once scary incident happened during a heavy storm in Tunis. A man tried to grab me, claiming to be a taxi driver, although there was no taxi in sight. Luckily, I was with my partner at the time and he rescued me and we moved away from that man and to a quieter place. Most of the time I felt safe walking with the crowds during the daytime. And Carthage and Sidi Bou Said were fine, since there are many tourists.
Highlights
- Tunis, the vibrant capital with interesting architecture
- Sidi Bou Said with its quaint blue and white buildings by the sea
- Carthage with its ancient ruins by the sea
- Hammamet and the beaches
- Monastir
- Amphitheater of El Jem
- Atlas Mountains
- Djerba Island
- Great Mosque of Kairouan
- Jebil National Park
- UNESCO site historic medina of Sousse
- Tunisian food including couscous, tajine, brik (fried pastry with fillings), fish, spicy harissa paste, baklava
Before you go
- UK and US citizens can visit Tunisia without a visa for up to 90 days
- Tunisia is a Muslim country
- Ramadan, an important religious period, moves each year and some opening hours will vary
- Conservative dress is standard; head coverings for women in mosques
- Alcohol is available, but not for sale on Fridays
- Recommended not to drink tap water and be careful of fresh fruits and vegetables- I tended to get ill
- Arabic is the official language, and many people speak French
- Taxis need to be negotiated
Transport
- There are many airports in Tunisia. Tunis – Carthage International Airport is the largest followed by Enfidha–Hammamet International Airport
- Although Uber is not available, Bolt is an alternative. Otherwise you need to negotiate in advance with taxis
- Travel by train to Carthage and Sidi Bou Said was easy and affordable. The main website is SNCFT
- Walking during the day in cities and around smaller towns like Sidi Bou Said is generally safe, though stay alert
Accommodation
- In Tunis, we stayed at a grand but aging hotel called La Maison Blanche. The rooms are spacious and grand, and it very centrally located. We loved the service at the hotel restaurant, as they took such good care of the guests. However, they often did not have most of the menu so I had a lot of lamb tajine!
- Another visit, we stayed at the elegant and spacious Tunis Sheraton in the north of the city
- As usual I recommend checking reviews on Google Reviews or using AirBnB
Currency
The official currency is the Tunisian Dinar. As of March 2025, one British pound is equal to 4 Tunisian Dinars.
I recommend to check the currency conversion just before you leave as this fluctuates
Food
One of my favourite parts about travel to Tunisia was the food. Although I had heard about tajines (or tagine) and couscous, the first time I tried the authentic version was while I was on a work trip to Tunis. Unfortunately, I didn’t take many food photos at the time, so some of the food photos are from my own North African cooking.
First, I learned that couscous and tajine are two separate dishes. And couscous often has accompanying vegetables or meat, but it doesn’t come served in the tajine (clay pot).
One of my favourite starters was brik, a fried pastry with different fillings including fish, meat or cheese. Since Tunisia is near the sea, there were plenty of fish options. As a side condiment, we were usually served harissa, which is a spicy paste.
Interestingly, I had associated Shakshuka with breakfast in Israel, but many articles indicate the origins in North Africa, and likely Tunisia. It is a tasty dish with eggs cooked in a stew of tomatoes and peppers.
Merguez sausages, similar to Morocco, were sometimes on the menu. However, I mostly had fish and vegetables with occasional lamb tajine.
For dessert, we were most often served dates, sweet baklava pastries, oranges or fried pastries.
Finally, mint tea at the end of the meal is a custom. It is a black tea flavoured with mint and sugar, and it is poured into small cups to sip from.
FAQs
Q: Do I need a tour guide?
A: No, but you will need to be slightly adventurous to walk around, negotiate with taxis or take the local trains
Q: Do people speak English?
A: Some people speak English but many signs are in Arabic, and our taxi drivers generally did not speak English. More people speak French. It is useful to have a translation app
Q: Can I travel solo?
A: Yes, but you need to be slightly adventurous and very aware of your surroundings. Also, as a solo female traveller, be especially careful at night
Q: How easy is it to send postcards?
A: It was easy to find postcards and there are plenty of postcards around the cities. However, I went to Tunisia before I started tracking how long delivery would take. See Sending Postcards from Abroad for details on cost and the time it took to reach the USA.
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